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Dave and I originally came here to try some
ice climbing, hoping that the waterfall would be frozen with the recent
weather. It was, but only the top half and since it wasn't climbable (we
wouldn't have tried leading it in any case) we tried getting to the top
of the icefall by following the river down.
We'd got out of bed early and took the bus out in morning twilight. We
reached the Spout of Ballagan as the morning sun hit the cliffs, but
heard running water despite the freezing temperatures. That wasn't a
good sight and from our initial vantage point, we could tell the icefall
hadn't fully formed. But it was sure as hell impressive.
So we thought we'd make an effort anyway and walked to the very top of the Spout,
and would try and work our way down. We climbed to the top and I started
down a snow-choked gully, leading into an alcove of trees and a basin of
water. We didn't realise how hard it would be to make progress
down the river.
The First Traverse: Out on the lead and the crux of the day
To get downstream we tried traversing steep grass, but below this
steepened to vertical then into a pool of water. At this time of
year, exposure to water could be certain death and I think Dave nearly
slipped before we pulled back. So we took the ropes out and Dave belayed
me from a tree trunk.
There were no anchor points along the way, and a fall on the traverse
would see me take a huge pendulum below. The first check point was
reached - a tree plastered to the side of this mossy cliff, where I
created an anchor with sling and karabiner - and with the tension of
poorly protected 'climbing' released, I moved several more metres along
the slope, cliff below my feet, holding onto tree roots and swinging
into snow and turf with the axe. It was nerve racking but not so much as
the first section of the traverse.
I got onto belay and brought Dave across to my spot. From here,
continuing horizontally along the grass was much too steep, but there
was a short gully leading down from the tree. This would bring us down
to the river and flatter, walkable, ground. I thought descending a
stupid idea at first, for if we abseiled down, we would not get back up
for the gully was bristling with loose, unstable rock.
First abseil
But Dave voted to go first and I watched him descend successfully. I
went after and we arrived on safe ground. I was happy to move on
since we could climb the opposite bank if we absolutely needed to. If we
had to escape the steep banks, trees provide superb anchors, as long as
the tree itself doesn't move!
We were thrilled with our current location. We were somewhere perhaps
not many people have seen for it requires rope to reach. The Spout of
Ballagan is like a Tardis - beneath the innocent tree lined glen is a
huge interior of cliffs, pools and waterfalls. Domes are carved from the
rock by the force of waterfall and crumbling cliffs overhang by many
metres. Though the rock was frozen together, falling masonry was was
heard. I
heard one thump, Dave heard more. I imagine it must be worse in summer because the whole place appears to be
falling apart.
Second abseil
It might be easy to tell that by now, any thoughts of climbing pure water
ice had left our heads. We were already on our own adventure and began
to enjoy puzzling out each drop.
The next drop we had to get down was a cliff of about ten metres. The
river flowed over the edge of this cliff, bounded in by the steep
wood-lined walls. At the bottom and to the left hand side (where the good tree, or anchor,
was) only a deep pool was to be found. It was covered in
ice, but there is no point in abseiling into water, or ice which of
course could break. The next best tree seemed to be dead and hung over the edge in the centre
of the cliff. We considered our options. Dave went
first and I was a little frightened it would snap. It
looked very thin and twistable, but he set up the abseil, prepared himself
to go then slipped off the edge, broke off an enormous branch on the way
with an almighty snap, but slowed to a stop and he was safe. I laughed
out loud with the released tension. If the tree had given up it would be a ten metre
fall to the rocks.
Well the tree took his weight and indeed, being much lighter, I abseiled
off the branch with no problems other than fear!
Leaving the glen
Another walk awaited us over sheet ice and snow, then we came to the
next drop. A solid icefall, almost. It also dawned on us here the main
waterfall we wished to get to was a long way below and would require
many (possibly irreversible) abseils. An easy snow slope led off to our
left, out of the glen and so we had an escape option. The commitment of
the previous abseils already felt tense, the day was getting late and
the sun was warming the snow too much. We were tired, had felt enough
adrenaline and had too much fun already to care about climbing ice.
So we walked back to Strathblane by a shoddily marked path (the official
route to the Ballagan Nature Reserve lies through somebody's private
mansion gardens!) and thus we ended up exiting via. somebody's driveway.
Onto the road and back to Strathblane, we missed the bus by ten seconds,
bought food and waited in the freezing temperatures for the next one. I
got a lift home from Milngavie train station. Dave stayed on the bus went onto into town.
Overall - a great success, unplanned and adventurous.
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