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Last time Dave and I
went to Auchinstarry (September), we had an immensely successful day, by
previous standards. The highlight for me was climbing the majority of
High Dive, an E3 on the impressive Mascarade Buttress.
Since then Dave had bought a load of lead climbing gear and we put it to
good use, this time on the Car Park Crag. But before Auchinstarry we
went out to
Craigmore to attempt Layback Crack. We'd had a soaking wet day a couple
of days previous and Craigmore was still wet - the cliffs ran with water and there would be no sun on this north
facing crag to dry it out. I thought Auchinstarry would be ideal, south facing
as it is. It was a gamble to drive all the way out to
Kilsyth but it paid off.
Scream
Dave started by leading Scream, which he seemed to find easy. I'd found
it stupidly hard when I climbed it with Ian. Wondering how Dave did
it, I went up and found that it wasn't so bad after all. In fact I was
amazed - I could see where I'd gone wrong last time but it was still an
immense surprise.
E2 Slab
When we'd both topped out, we rigged a top-rope down the E2 slab left of
Scream. I went up first, keen to get onto the intricate holds. I climbed it,
but not without some difficulty! Many parts were quite easy but
the crux in the middle was a bit desperate. Dave went up after me, then keen
to refine the sequence of moves further I went up one last time. At the
top I de-rigged the top-rope and we went off to solo Anarchist for a
while. I couldn't do it and neither could Dave so instead of
almost killing himself, he lead it instead.
Anarchist
So he went and did that, placing a gear ladder by my request! I seconded
up and with the sun getting low and us getting tired, we decided on one
final climb. A couple of climbers had named Promontory Direct (HVS) as a great route, so we went to have a
look. On the way I pointed Dave to Cubby's E5 'Nijinski' (very well
known) and the final climb was sealed. We rigged a top-rope on Nijinski,
running slings over the edge from two bolts at the top. I finished
securing the top-rope then abseiled down to Dave, wondering why we were
bothering to attempt this! It looked good though and from what I could
tell there were a lot of big holds despite it being an E5.
Nijinski
Dave went first - he got to the first big platform no problem, headed up
the shallower incline to the crux then had a hell of a battle. Five or
ten minutes passed before he pushed through and the mood went
super-charged when he made it to the top. I was well happy for him but
of course, now I just had to do it.
I took Dave back to the bottom, changed over then started up. I went
for a big dyno to the first big hold and got onto that, balancing up the
shallower incline above. The crux was nuts and very difficult but I
somehow got through it, balancing my way up the precipitous holds, going
for the big moves from necessary. I got onto the first of the big holds
to the top and that now it was in the bag - what would otherwise seem
like small sloper handholds now seemed enormous, but the crux moves had
been on fingernail mini-crimps.
And out the top I went, feeling a rush like never before. I de-rigged the slings and we packed up for home. I'd first just sat on
top feeling the most enormous high I'd felt in a long time. It felt
great but I was aware that it was a shallow high, in some sense. No
reason to worry about that - I'd climbed Nijinski! But how had it
happened so effortlessly?
We tossed the gear into Dave's car and drove home, both of us (or at
least me) on a big high. Nijinski is the first climb I've felt enormous
pride in doing, the rest were like warm ups, but I'll bet there's more
to come anyway.
Climbs:
Scream,
Severe: Dave (Lead O/S), Kevin
(Second, repeat)
E2 Slab left of Scream,
E2: Kevin (TR O/S), Dave (TR O/S),
Kevin (TR, repeat)
Anarchist,
Hard V.Diff: Dave (Lead O/S), Kevin
(Second, repeat)
Nijinski,
E5: Dave (TR, O/S), Kevin (TR, O/S) |