Home >> Climbing>> Trip Report (2010-02-21)

Neilston Quarry
Sunday 21st February 2010
 

Weather/Conditions: Cold, clear weather.
Accompanying:
Ian

Routes:
Corner
and Groove (5m Diff, solo)
Flake Route (10m V.Diff, seconded)
Curved Crack, then Punk Rock (10m HVS 5a, top-rope)

A good day out climbing - the long drive to Neilston was rewarded by a slightly dank looking quarry, though the range of routes were apparent. I started up a small climb called Crack and Groove (Diff), an easy warm up I felt. Ian went to Flake Route first and took a left hand variation due to the unprotected and committing nature of the crux move at the top. It's harder than the grade suggests. Since I was on a top-rope I went for the crux and pulled it off, just. I wouldn't however have liked to have done it on lead.

With the day getting on, we set up a top rope on on of the harder climbs in the quarry - Curved Crack (HVS). I figured that since I'm good technically, a top-rope might allow me to perform better out with the Glasgow Climbing Centre. Curving Crack started off fairly hard which is too be expected, then turned dirty with pellets and bird droppings covering the ledges. Be warned. It got a little too hard so I changed plan and swung out onto an alternative finish to this route called Punk Rock, also of the same trad and technical grade. It proved to be a tough challenge with some loose rock at the top. I made it, but couldn't have done so without the top-rope.

February daylight hours are short, so it started getting dark by the time I finished Curved Crack/Punk Rock. One of my main memories of this crag was watching the sun going down, feeling the chill in the air and packing our things by headtorch beam. And as sad as it is, the whole lot was causing me to miss my recently deceased friend Michael Coffield who had died only a week previously. Since Michael and I always walked into the darkness of night by headtorch, Ian and I being at a dark crag by headtorch triggered some unfortunate memories.

That asides however, it was a good day climbing and well worth it. The drive back though then north of Glasgow was a bit long though.



Written: 2010-06-29