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This was my first ever time in Torridon, and
the highlight of the long weekend spent in the north-west of Scotland.
Torridon is one hell of a place, and everything from there northward to
Dundonnell may be my favourite place in Scotland. From the epic
Fisherfield trip in 2009 with the bivouac beneath A' Mhaighdean to the
magic week at Poolewe and Loch Maree - it never disappoints. We had exceptional weather on our
traverse across Beinn Dearg and Beinn Alligin. The memories only grow
sweeter with the passing time and I was more than happy to be back in
one of my favourite places in the world.
We'd spent the night at Coulags bothy and walked back to the car in Glen
Carron in the morning. The morning was beautiful, with the sun out.
Coulags bothy to Torridon
Colin, Faye and I had been milling around Glen Carron the previous day.
We'd climbed three new mountains and spent the night in Coulags bothy.
Colin and Faye know Jim Sutherland, I believe, through working on Tir is
Teanga. Something like that. So we left the bothy in the morning and
drove around to Sheildaig where Jim lives. It is an amazing drive. I'd
never seen Glen Carron before. There was excitement driving past the
corries of Beinn Bhan. Looking at great square-cut walls and considering
improbably hard mixed winter climbs. The
North-west Highlands look amazing under clear skies. New mountains
appeared around bends. Deep, deep blue lochs were set between shores
of pine.
We arrived at Jim Sutherland's place in Shieldaig. He has a really nice place
and a very cool view of Liathach from the door. We spent a while here
before driving off to Torridon.
I'd never seen Torridon before, close up. So it was in possession of
eyes like saucepans that we rounded the bend above Sheildaig and Beinn
Alligin and Beinn Dearg came into view. Oh my god... What a place! The
drama here is unbelievable. Yet another place that I know the
topographical form of the mountains inside out, another place where the
reality is magnificent beyond any preconception.
Beinn Dearg
We parked up at the eastern end of Liathach. I was surprised to see
so many cars around. I think Jim said something like it was the busiest he'd seen. Colin called it the "Glen Coe of the
north." We walked north into the valley above the car park. A great path
runs between Liathach and Beinn Eighe - two amazing mountains, right
there...
Then piece by piece, the northern corries of Liathach peeled back. Jim
has climbed a lot in this area and I hugely appreciated the guided tour
of these northern corries. Seeing our objective Beinn Dearg ahead was
one thing, but watching the Northern Pinnacles of Mullach an Rathain was
something else. Pair this with the perfect weather and well - I was in
heaven. We climbed onto Carn na Feola first, which is a top lying east
of Beinn Dearg. It is very much part of Beinn Dearg and is a superb
viewpoint of the surrounding mountains.
Beinn Dearg is interesting for being a Corbett that was accurately
resurveyed, as it was just under Munro-height. And so it remains a
Corbett. I thought
it lacks the incredible character of the Torridonian Munros, but I like
to think that isn't a slight. It's interesting features are subtle: the narrow tower on the east ridge and
the sliced off summit of the north Top. It lies in the heart of Torridon
and the Munros radiate like spokes.
We walked westward from Carn na Feola to Beinn Dearg's eastern tower,
where despite the great weather, the wind had kicked up a bit. We
brought helmets out for extra safety. Jim is a mountain guide in
Torridon and without him technically guiding us here, I now understand
the peace of mind and confidence that a guide inspires. I didn't before. A couple of easy rock steps brought us
over the tower. It was a lot of fun, sadly short-lived and Beinn Dearg's
cairned
summit followed shortly after.
For a Corbett, we met many people on the summit which was nice to see for a hill of this quality. And
undoubtedly one of the highlights of this mountain is to look westward
to Beinn Alligin, which could be one of the most amazing mountains I'll
ever see.
Beinn Dearg descent
I nipped up the north top with the sliced summit (Stuc Loch na
Cabhaig) and met the others below on the west face. And I was in such an
huge good mood that I insisted in climbing over all the wee blocks
and pinnacles on the way up. Riding on the joy, I always kept in mind
that this was one of the most amazing days of my year. Don't forget
this. This is special.
Craggy as it is, we managed to take a good route off Beinn Dearg's west face,
involving no death-defying antics in the process. Looking back up the
face revealed there weren't many better lines we could have taken. It
all went without incident and we walked into
the valley knowing that Beinn Alligin was still to
come. How good could it get?
Horns of Alligin
Jim has a friend called Gerry who caught my attention because only
last year walked a
continuous round of the Munros. And to add to such an achievement he
was the oldest to do so. I even knew about his round before we met. We'd planned to meet below
Beinn Alligin at 3pm and we arrived only five minutes late - not bad,
considering where we'd come from.
Faye headed back to the cars at the Coire Mhic Nobuil car park while the
rest of us plodded up to the Horns of Alligin. The plod is long, but very much
worth it. The Horns are one of the several highlights of the Alligin
round and they lived up to their name. Approached from this angle, they
are mostly walking with a couple of sections of scrambling up the
terraces, and what scrambling exists, is a lot of fun. The drop off
the northern side is quite sheer, but all the climbing happens on the
south side and I was pleased to discover it was on the right side of my
capabilities. I would almost consider doing it in winter. A couple of
moves felt sketchy on the final descent to Sgurr Mhor, but I never felt
in danger. That, I am pleased about.
Beinn Alligin
All the while, the fire over at Liathach sent higher and higher plumes
of smoke. Oddly enough, I didn't think much about it even though it
began obscuring views from Beinn Alligin. As we had a rest at the far
end of the pinnacles, the light was tinted yellow and the smell of
burning was in the air. I began to think I may not get to take my 360
panorama from Sgurr Mhor after all.
It's a straight walk up to the top, take-no-prisoners style, and then
you're right out on the summit. And then the sea comes into view. And
the view is to die for.
The thrill was unbelievable. This must be the Hebrides at their best,
and I could linger there for hours. For the duration we were there, a couple were sitting on the grass
looking out to the west. Everybody else
was moving on and I followed on too. This isn't stuff you don't want to forget.
Like that wasn't enough, we walked off the summit as the great gash of
Alligin - Eag Dhubh - filled the void below us. Jim reminded me of it -
and of course! I was so caught up in everything else, I'd completely
forgotten about it. Like most of Beinn Alligin, it's another stunning
piece of architecture and seeing photographs had left me completely unprepared for
the size of this thing. It really fills your entire view - when you
stand and look at it, you are
both above and below it. The view through the slot and down into the corrie is mind-bending.
On the way to Tom na Gruagaich I saw some kind of eagle above the hill -
perhaps a golden or sea eagle? It is in the picture top right, I would
be interested to know.
We regrouped on Tom na Gruagaich, which was also Colin's 200th Munro.
And what a place to have it. We took a break, I got great photographs
and Colin had his mountain. That had been the purpose of the trip, after
all.
Descent
And to complete the fun, a 3000-foot knee-battering descent followed.
Well - it's not quite so bad but it's a steep one. I talked to Gerry a
lot about his Munro round the year before, started to feel like I was
doing a game of twenty
questions (hope he didn't mind the relentless questions!). But what an interesting thing to have done. (No less, at the
age of 66) And I admit to toying with the idea from time to time,
too...
And with the sun dipping now, four of us arrived at the Coire Mhic Nobuil car park, all very happy,
smiles all around. Gerry commented
he'd never seen the bog at the start of the path dried out as it was
today.
Liathach Fire, after walk
In a way it seemed the day had only just began. We drove into
Torridon with Liathach above our heads, wrapped in colossal plumes of
smoke. I don't know if anyone clicked before myself, but it was only now
I realised it was a wild fire.
We arrived in Torridon to fire engines and a gentle buzz of activity.
The guy running the Youth Hostel had been packed to leave short-notice
(the flames stopped a couple metres from the building). We bought pizza
from the hostel then stood looking at the hill above. The fire was
wiping the hillside clean. Trails of fire extended from ground-level to
nearly 3000 feet.
In a certain way, it was tragic - what if homes were burnt down? Would
it travel and destroy the Coire Mhic Nobuil forests? In another way, I
was inspired and in absolute awe. Liathach is a strong mountain in
formation and in reputation. One of the most highly regarded of all
Scotland's mountains. So to lay eyes on it for the first time and watch
it burning is more than slightly strange. To watch it burn was to
watch forces at work greater than the mountain itself. It is poignant. I
took in every moment because I didn't think I'd see anything quite like this again.
We ate that pizza back at Jim's in Sheildaig. In
the evening I went up to a crag behind the village, got up above the
crags when Liathach came into view, still ablaze in the night. Some of
the resulting photographs are my favourite from the day.
In the long run, I don't think property was damaged, nor much forest
damaged. And I didn't hear what started the fire, either.
And it was one of those once-a-year days too - superb start to end,
climbing some great mountains, walking with great company, passionate
and knowledgeable about the mountains. Jim and Gerry undoubtedly live in
one of the most beautiful places in Scotland.
I don't know when I'll get back to Torridon, but I look forward to it.
Panoramas
360° panorama from Carn na Feola
360° panorama from Beinn Dearg
360° panorama from Stuc Loch na Cabhaig
360° panorama from Sgurr Mhor (Beinn Alligin)
100° detail panorama from Sgurr Mhor (Beinn Alligin) - south
180° panorama from Tom na Gruagaich (Beinn Alligin) - north
180° panorama from Tom na Gruagaich (Beinn Alligin) - south
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