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This was yet another
beautiful day. As far as the weather goes, this walk tops
Beinn Dorain and Dothaidh on the 2nd of November. Funnily enough, I was
told by walker on Dorain that "you don't get many days like
this, so make the most of it." I agreed with his statement but I struck lucky
on this day. The conditions were the best I've ever seen them.
Edit, Feb '09: The best of my Winter 08 walks came to a head on
31st December on Beinn Ime, the third (and perhaps final?) of this
succession of clear and beautiful winters days.
Beinn Eich
The forecast was to be good for Sunday and on Saturday night, fog fell
upon the Central Belt. Based on experiences from an earlier walk outside
Arrochar, (12th February 2008) I knew that fog down below could be good
news up top. If I was lucky I could witness a cloud inversion. I was
dropped off at the head of Glen Luss at 8.10am, just as the sun was
coming up. The journey to Glen Lus had been fog-ridden, so by now I knew
what was in store. I wasn't in a walking mood at when I began, but knew that
should I climb quickly as the most beautiful cloud inversion must be
awaiting above. Anticipating the views to come, I'd even borrowed a
Canon 5D camera to capture the day in photographs that would turn out a bit better than an
old point and shoot would have done. (It turned out to be a bulky
option, and I wouldn't bring two lenses and large camera case if I were
to use an SLR myself) I walked along the road, and found a stile with a
signpost directing the way up Beinn Eich. Even if I wasn't in the mood, I couldn't just sit down here. Snow-clad Doune
Hill was glowing pink and more views were awaiting should I just walk.
I headed up Beinn Eich, first over grass, then then up to the snow.
There was a substantial amount lying although it was powdery and didn't
hold any weight. Behind me, the sun rose and it was beautiful. I'd seen a couple of cloud inversions before but
they weren't like what I saw on this day. The Campsie Fells and
Kilpatrick Hills rose up as silhouetted islands. Even the
Ochils were their own 'island' and under the rising sun, this
glowing bed of cloud travelled unbroken to
the eastern horizon. I hate to use clichés like "sea of clouds"
just like every other writer does, but there were really is no better way to
put it. It was like a "sea" and I was sure glad to be standing at the western end,
looking out upon it.
On my way up Beinn Eich, I ran into footprints, the first I'd seen. It
first of all occurred to me that there were perhaps others about but the
footprints indicated that whoever was here was descending and they may
have been of those who were last off the hills yesterday. I continued
onwards at a moderate pace, not quite fast enough to fatigue myself, but
slow enough as to enjoy myself. If I went faster the going would get
tedious, and I'd want to race around summits. Racing myself is something
I've had a tendency to do: wanting to be somewhere else than where I
currently am drives me onwards, and
I go faster and faster wanting to be on the next hill. I'm not sure what
fuels the compulsion to be on the next hill, but avoiding such a
mindset, I careful to take things slowly because these hills had to be enjoyed at
a slow and relaxed pace.
I was on top of Beinn Eich at 10.05am. It took about two hours to climb
the 650 metres, and I stopped for a while to take
pictures. I wrapped up more too as I'd not been wearing enough on the
way up to stay warm. At points, breathing onto numb fingers brought
blood back into the vessels and pain followed. It was at the summit that
I realised I really was cold. Keeping warm on the winter hills is
something that may need some work.
Beyond Beinn Eich, the ridge took me on a gradual
slope downwards to the Doune Hill-Beinn Eich saddle where I stopped for
ten minutes. I'd figured I'd need this rest as I had been feeling
dizzy coming off the top of Beinn Eich. Perhaps the lack of food
to eat or lack of warmth brought it on, I'm not sure, but I was
fine quickly afterwards.
Doune Hill and descent
My non-walking mood hadn't disappeared yet. Doune Hill was going to be a
slog and I knew it. I took it slowly, first heading to Beinn
Lochain, the west top, and then onto the final slopes up to the summit.
I had planned to climb Cruach an t-Sidhean before setting off but now
edging on fatigue, I decided against it. I was using the trail
yesterdays hill walkers had broken and they hadn't gone up the Cruach
either. If I were to climb it, it would leave me tired in a low mood
because I couldn't say no to climbing. Feeling low and tired was not an
option on a day like this.
I was at the summit trig point of Doune Hill at 11.55am and took a
panorama. The cloud inversion was still standing to the east and the sun
reflecting off the snow, all around, was immensely bright. This was
undoubtedly the finest winter day I'd had yet and I sat with my back
against the trig point, looking eastwards to the horizon. It was midday,
the sun was as high as it would get and I spent a lot of time watching
the stillness of this quiet, beautiful day.
I left the summit and felt a bit better. I felt in the
mood to walk now, and a quick jaunt down the east slopes brought me to
the saddle between the east top and main summit. Climbing the top could be another
slog, but I'd give it a go. I took it slowly,
steadily, and working this way brought me to the
top a few moments later. I didn't stay long and left after a round of
pictures. I descended down
to the saddle, and then headed down to Glen Mollochan by following a stream.
The descent was quick and when I reached the valley floor, the walk out
began. I was tired now, but definitely in the mood to
walk. The ground was rough, but I took things as they came and enjoyed
myself along the way. After 20 or so
minutes of negotiating the broad valley floor, I picked up the rough (and
often ice covered) track which would take me back to the head of Glen
Luss. The sun was creeping lower in the sky and I brought the camera out at
several occasions to photograph cross-lit Doune Hill.
After nearly seven hours on the hills, I arrived back at the houses in
Glen Luss. I spoke to an old couple here about the hills, Munros, and so
on. They seemed to be surprised to see me walking here, as do others.
Sometimes people seem surprised to see a 17 year old walking on his own,
however whether they do or not, it does offers some good conversation. I
continued on my way and ten minutes later, while walking on the road, I
was picked up. From there it was a quick visit to Loch Lomond Shores and
then home.
I hadn't seen a soul in nearly seven hours during my walk. The Luss
Hills are a quiet place for being so close to Glasgow. Maybe they're
overlooked for being peat hags, not close enough to the city to justify
travelling to when Dumgoyne's nearer? Maybe they're boring rolling hills
where the mountains around about are "better", whatever that means. I
have to say I'm probably guilty of missing out on them myself, heading
either to the Campsies to Arrochar and beyond when Luss was sitting in
the middle. I had simply the most beautiful weather here, and my opinion
of them is so high. They're lower, quieter and far less craggy than
those around about, but I reckon I'll be glad to think of them in future
and remember this day. It really was almost too good and it'll be a one
to remember.
Panoramas
Glen Luss early morning
360 degree panorama from Beinn Eich's summit
Distant Arran mountains viewed from Beinn Eich's NW ridge
Doune Hill 90˚ zoomed: N to E. Orchy,
Crianlarich, North Luss Hills, Loch Lomond, Ben Lomond, The Ochils
Doune Hill 90˚ zoomed: E to S. Campsie Fells,
Loch Lomond, South Luss Hills, Southern Uplands, Kilpatrick Hills
Doune Hill 90˚ zoomed: S to W. South Luss
Hills, Firth of Clyde, Cowal
Doune Hill 90˚ zoomed: W to N. Beinn Reithe,
The Brack, Arrochar Alps
Written: 2008-12-04
Revised: 2009-02-09
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