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Dad and I decided we'd do this
hill after debating whether to do Beinn Narnain. (Arrochar Alps ... again) or
White Coomb (Southern Uplands) The idea came about when I'd found a photograph
with a stunning view across to the Buachaille Etive Mor in that guys book on the
3000 foot mountains of Britain and Ireland. Because the weather
the day before was pretty sunny, we'd decided to give it a go.
I got up around 6am which was murderous to do. We left early, just after 7am to
get to Glen Coe for 9, or there about. The drive
didn't take too long, and was certainly enjoyable, now I had the knowledge to
name nearly every peak we passed. Upon arriving at Altnafeadh at the eastern end
of Glen Coe, (9.05) we sat in the car for a while and got everything
organised, putting on
boots, etc, so we left just around half past nine.
Ascent
We began up the Devils Staircase to search out a route but very soon a path cut
off to the right, taking us around the top of the pine trees. From there, it was
a case of crossing some streams and fences, and before too long we ended up on
the western slopes. It was initially fairly steep, but quite gentle all the
same. Dad took his time so I patiently plodded up alongside, and we made slow
but even progress.
We eventually ended up beside a tiny lochan where we stopped to take pictures of
BEM on the other side of the valley. Impressive, indeed it was and any
'vertical' the Buachaille was capable of showing was all here. The path up
through Coire na Tulaich looked almost 45 degrees and it was horrendously steep
up to the bealach, not to mention the snow and cornicing around the rim. As well
as that,
the rock spires of the great east face were profiled against the dark
overcast sky. When cloud moved off the summit, there were occasionally a few
figures standing precipitously on top. Well, lucky I wasn't over there, but on a
great round lump of a Corbett opposite! Sure, my ice axe was lying in the boot
of the car but it wouldn't have been needed for Chrulaiste. (I was planning to
run up Buachaille Etive Beag later on in the day provided we hadn't taken too
much time over this first hill, but things didn't work out that way and we
instead went up to the Steall Falls later on. I'd imagine I would have needed an
axe for Etive Beag)
After the first steep initial ascent, the mountain flattened out as we reached
Stob Beinn a' Chrulaiste. (the small top to the west)
There was some snow lying
about and it where it lay it was very thick, icy and solid. Even kicking it with
my boots wouldn't dig deeper than a few inches, and at steeper moments I was
nearly sliding off the side! The 4 season boots were good enough to kick in
small steps, but not much else!
However, Dad and I continued up the side, passing snowfield after snowfield, but
constantly the views were changing. I could also see up to the Mamores and make
out Sgurr Eilde Mor, Binnein Mor and the likes. The two Stob Bans' of the
Mamores and Grey Corries were also in sight. Underfoot, any bogs (and there were
a lot) were frozen solid and made for excessively easy walking. A last pull up a
snowfield brought us to the summit at 12.05!
It took two and a half hours to get up which was an incredibly gentle pace,
although no one was tired. We walked to the east side of the mountain where we
were in the shade but the whole face was piled up with metres of snow. I don't
think until this point I'd seen such extensive snow coverage, and went on for
metres, although was slightly slippery and would curve off, ending in a steep
drop (with some crags) to the eastern face. Care was required here to not step
too far. The rim was lined with cornices, however amounts had broken away and
sat below with crack lines running all the way up the lip. I took some photos in
the intervals between stopping to eat. Even took a piss in front of the world.
(well, Rannoch Moor, but who's looking?)
As the saying goes, don't eat yellow snow, folks.
Descent
Anyway, we took some pictures at the trig point and left soon after. (12.30-ish)
The descent was a nice easy angled slope downwards, and we saw a few people
coming up. (in addition to one guy at the summit, actually) The going was a bit
tougher on the legs on the final steep section but the trekking pole solved most
of that. We arrived back at the car around 2pm, so we certainly took our time
coming off. Threw the stuff in the boot and although we still hours of daylight
left, there probably wasn't enough for me to to Etive Beag. I could have done it
in 3 hours I'm pretty sure but given the conditions (less than sunny) our
slowness to do Chrulaiste and the solo aspect it, I decided I shouldn't chance
it. Only four hours of daylight after all.
Glen Coe was, as always impressive and we drove through Fort William and into
Glen Nevis. I could see where Alex and I camped (Nevis on 9th August 07), and it
was wonderful to see a place that I knew so well, and had many excellent
memories of. We continued further along through over the twisty road until we
arrived at where the car park was as far as you get.
The walk along to Steall Falls was excellent, and although already a bit tired
it was a good walk along an unsafe path! However arriving in the flat plain with
the mountains soaring, the river, meadows and falls shooting down the rock was
nothing short of impressive and was like something out of a Tolkien novel. The
gorge wasn't too full of water, and there was some fun to be had on the great
boulders.
A quick mess about on the wire bridge and we headed back to the car. Drove back
to Glasgow. Glen Coe was bathed in an odd yellow ambience as the sun made it's
last appearance and the Aonach Eagach was nothing short of pure epic yet I spent
most of the journey back sleeping and we arrived home in the evening.
Written 2008-02-18 and 19
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